To Mariana, my guiding angel
Thank you for the enlightenment!
I have successfully made Mr. Bigot’s panettone using a simple method based on Mariana’s advice.*** Mr. Bigot is a French master baker who apprenticed under Professor Calvel over half a century ago. He uses unique flour combination and procedures in his panettone formula. I am intrigued to find out how good this bread is.
Mr. Bigot uses two Japanese flours, with protein contents of 10.7% and 11.5% respectively, in a 3:1 ratio to make his panettone. He mixes the dough by hand and the final product looks like this:
Photo credit: Chinatimes
Spectacular, isn’t it?! I followed Mr. Bigot’s formula exactly but used my own procedures, which were created largely based on the information Mariana had shared.
I converted my existing starter to 50% hydration and built it with most of Mr. Bigot’s levain procedures below:
100g – (10.7% protein) flour; I used King Arthur all purpose flour (11.7% protein)
50g -yeast water
malt syrup optional
DT 75.2F at RT 75.2F x 6hrs
shrink-wrapped, tied (which I didn’t do), into fridge x 24hrs
100g – (10.7% protein) flour; again I used KA AP flour
50g – water
0.4g – malt syrup
50g – starter from previous day
DT 75.2F at RT 75.2F x 6hrs
shrink-wrapped, tied (again, I didn’t do it), into fridge x 12-24hrs
repeat Day 2 procedures for 5 days to one week
starter matures when it can triple within 5-6 hours
My starter never tripled. I decided it was active enough when it had doubled within 5-6 hours for two consecutive days. So I stopped building after the 4th day.
My starter looked like this when it was ready.
Mr. Bigot’s instructions to refresh (1kg of starter)
Starter : AP : H2O = 1 : 2 : 1
0.8% malt syrup
DT 75.2F at RT 86F x 5-6 hours, should triple
divide into 2kg each
wrapped, tied loosely allowing 2-finger space
The following formula yields two 5.25″ panettones, each weighs approximately 550-600g.
all purpose flour 175g – 41.18%
bread flour 75g – 17.65%
levain 75g – 17.65%
sugar 75g – 17.65%
water 125g – 29.41%
butter 75g – 17.65%
It’s impossible for me to mix by hand. So I used my Zojirushi bread machine to incorporate the ingredients. I controlled the amount of ingredients being mixed so that a paste could be formed. I held on to the water and only added what’s needed to form a paste. Once a paste was formed, I incorporated the remaining water using the “double hydration” method. The dough was mixed until it had reached intermediate gluten development.***
I constantly checked the dough temperature to ensure it was below 75F . If the dough needed more mixing but it was getting warm, I cooled it in the fridge then resumed mixing.
I let the dough ferment at 81-84F for approximately12 hours. It doubled. I chilled the dough for about an hour before proceeding to the next stage of mixing.
all purpose flour 87g – 20.59%
bread flour 37g – 8.82%
egg yolk 187g – 44.12%
butter 37g – 8.82%
sugar 50g – 11.76%
salt 2g – 0.59%
Chilled the preferment first. Used the same strategies when mixing: aim to form a paste, hold back liquid (yolk), maintain DT below 75F, chill if needed, then resume mixing, incorporate remaining yolk using double hydration method.
Once the dough was close to be fully developed,*** mixed with ingredients in B. below.
diced orange peels 25g – 5.88%
diced lemon peels 25g – 5.88%
raisin 75g – 17.65%
rum-soaked mixed candied fruits 75g – 17.65%
rum 5g to soak mixed candied fruits for a week (I only soaked them in the day before baking)
Gluten fully developed.
Usually I would stop messing with the dough but not this time…
Instead, I stretch-n-folded the dough every 30 minutes for about three hours when the dough was left to ferment at approximately 82-86F.
When the folds could no longer hold together and slip apart after the S&F, divide it in half.
Stretch-n-folded each dough one more time. At this point the dough was strong and puffy and could be easily transferred to the molds. Bulk fermentation was complete.
At approximately 82-86F for about 6 hours.
Preheat oven to 356F, then turned it off.
Applied egg wash to dough. Leave dough in oven for 5 minutes.
Took dough out. Preheat oven to 320F.
Cut the dough with scissors as shown.
Peeled the ‘crust’.
Baked at 320F x 50 minutes.
Used inner pots of rice and vacuum cookers to hang.
Light as feather! even though much less fat (only 26%) is used than most panettone formulae. The flour combination must have done the trick! No strong flours in the formula!
Great success with another master baker’s panettone formula* using the same procedures!
***In discussions with Mariana here.
*In David Kelly’s blog post here.
Something special for my friends: